Our final day

Saturday was my last day in London and Portobello market is open on Saturday's. Yippeeee! Portobello market is another one of those things that can be overwhelming. There are so many people and so many things to look at. I visited the vendor where I bought my Ilford camera from, but there wasn't anything I liked. I did find a late 1800's/early 1900's map of Denmark that had probably been part of a book. I looked at it and then I set it down. I walked away and was thinking about it and Dan finally said just buy it. So, I did. The gentleman who sold it to me said that the colors were hand inked. I was very glad that I bought it. Then I saw spats. A year ago I saw spats in Camden Town and I just couldn't justify the expense. A year later I still wanted them and so I splurged and bought spats. They go up to your knee and are kind of like high fashion leg warmers. I'm going to start a new trend or just look ridiculous.

As we were heading back towards the tube at Notting Hill Gate and I saw a beautiful green adn blue 1950's necklace in the window. It drew me into the shop. I tried the necklace on, but it was almost too spectacular for me. I did find a pair of older chandelier earrings that have a bit of sparkle and teal blue-what I thought were stones. The lady who owned the shop said that the pearls that had been dyed. All and all a fabulous day of shopping. Once again I was getting hungry and so we stopped at the Prince Albert in Notting Hill and they had-get this- vegetarian Bangers and Mash. Translation it was sausage and mashed potatoes.

I have wanted a Burberry jacket or scarf for a long time now. I'm not sure what the obsession is, but I just want one. At the antique store off of Portobello Road I found a Burberry coat for 90 pounds (or about 150 USD). I put it on and it was too big. Seriously, when is anything ever too big on me. Then while at the airport I gazed at the Burberry shop and I said to myself, ok this is it, you are going to march into that shop and buy something. Before I did that I had to go to the restroom where I took a look at myself in the mirror. I had a big splotch right over my boob from the sparkling water I had opened that was sparkly. My hair was a birds nest and any makeup I did have on was long gone and my face was greasy (that was from the suntan lotion). My boots are a year overdue for a polish and I look like a prairie girl (new long flower skirt from H&M). There was no way I was ready for Burberry. I'm going to have to clean myself up and rethink this.

Shopping

Friday we got up and got going (ok, fine, Dan got up and got going and I slept in a bit) and we went to Covent Garden. I had been there with Cora and CW the first time I went to London, but it is always worth a wander. While I did not find anything at the booths, I did stumble across L'Artisan Parfumerie. This is the shop in Paris that I found an Amber perfume I really liked, but then I didn't find the shop again and I left town. So this time I had to try out the two Amber scents again, but thankfully I went back tot he shop and bought the perfume. It was a good thing too because all day I kept smelling myself and the scent was still perfect at the end of the day. I also like Covent Gardens because there are public bathrooms. Just another reason why London is so wonderful. You can always find a bathroom.

We took the tube north to Camden Town and met the canal boat right as it was going through the lock and they said we could join the tour. The canals go through the zoo and St. Regents Park. I love boat rides and this one did not disappoint. Our tour guide said she grew up on the canal and it was in her blood. She does tours throughout the summer and then in the off season she is an artist and does commissioned paintings of motorbikes. I was ready to chuck my job and live on the canal, but then I realized I didn't know how to paint. After the boat ride I was hungry for lunch and so we stopped at a bar on the canal adn I had my last fish and chips and a Stella for lunch. Camden can be a bit overwhelming and so we only covered a small portion of it. I found the shop where I bought my 1960's Liberty dress last time I was in London and I found yet another 1960's Liberty dress. What are the odds? This one was a bit frillier then the other one (and the other one is a wee bit Little House on the Prairie), but I tried it on and stepped out of the dressing room and Dan just about fell over laughing at me. It was also a little big, so I didn't buy it. Not because it was too frilly, but because it was too big. I can totally rock the Little House on the Prairie look and I have been doing so since high school. I did find a 1950's sheath dress that is a lovely autumnal print and color. It didn't hurt that it was only 12 quid or about 15 USD.

At that point we were shopped out and so we headed back to the hotel for a rest. I caught up on some emails and did my homework that may have been a day or so overdue. I thank goodness that this class will be over soon and I can have the summer off. By the time we got up and going it was around 9 o'clock. Dan's tradition is to go to Hard Rock Cafe his first night in town, well I mucked that up because we met Cora and CW-which was delightful. I do not think I had ever been to Hard Rock and so we went. We walked through Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park all the way to Hyde Park Corner. When we got there they said it was an hour and a half wait, but I didn't have a plan B so we decided to wait. They gave us a buzzer and we went across the street to the Hard Rock shop where Dan bought a tshirt. I found myself tempted by a sweatshirt, but decided against it. They have a small bar around back where you can go wait and while we were having a drink they buzzed that our table was ready. I had a delicious vegi burger, which made me happy because I have not had one since Christmas. We then walked home following the park, but staying to the well lit road.

The Gardens and The Globe

Thursday Dan and I took the tube out to Kew gardens. A large part of the grounds were closed off due to some hairy caterpillar invasion, which was actually ok, because the bloody thing is huge. We walked through a folly (all I could think of were cheesy romance novels and you know what happens in a folly), then walked a bit further and saw the Japanese pagoda and garden. There was also a beautiful Japanese gate that had been saved from one of the expositions in the late 1800's and brought to the gardens. The main greenhouse is a beautiful Victorian masterpiece that I imagined having a full tea in the afternoons. The best was we ate at the Orangery and sat outside in the sun supping on delicious food. I had a smoked salmon tart with a tomato salad and potato salad. My mouth is watering just thinking of it. We walked through one last greenhouse, but by then I had plant fatigue and it was almost 4 o'clock.

At that point we headed to Liberty. Oh I love you Liberty. They have a new line of housewares and a couple more clothing related items. It was very hard to pass up the beautiful liberty shirt dress or the wellies that had peacock feathers on them and matched the boxers I bought at Target (you know for jammies). I did buy some fabric and now I just need to get myself to a sewing machine. One last lingering look at the goods at Liberty and we headed back to the apartment to wash up and change to go to the Globe.

We had tickets to see As You Like It and we were in the gentleman's gallery, which is located toward the rear side of the stage, but it had nice cushy seats. There was an old 1800's camera on the stage and Dan and I were both wondering why. Well, they set the play in the 1800's. It is a good thing that the play was brilliant because I am not sure how I feel about missing out on the experience of seeing a play done in the Globe as it was presented in Shakespeare's age. I was lost in the magic of the stage sitting with the open sky visible and a fresh breeze blowing through. We walked back over Millenium Bridge with St. Paul's glowing under a night sky and I realized this was the first time I had been in this part of the neighborhood at night. The waves of the Thames could be heard as we crossed the bridge with the theater throng and I was content. I'm still going to have to go back and see a real Shakespeare play with men playing women and doublets and hose though.

The only problem with traveling with Dan is that since he is with me he isn't reading my blog and commenting. Hello-is anyone out there?

Oh what a beautiful morning

Wednesday we did some of my favorite things. We had a decent breakfast at our hotel, The Castleton in Kensington gardens, and then walked through Kensington Park and Hyde Park to get to the V&A. I think one reason I love visiting the Victoria and Albert museum is because it is free. I can go see a section and then save the rest for another time. This time none of the special exhibits interested Dan or I and so we visited the photography section. The exhibit was David Goldblatt: Lifetimes under apartheid and documented South Africa from around the 1940's through the 1980's. They were artistically great photos, but also told such an important story.Then we had a bit of a wander through the V&A and the gift shop and headed off to Harrods.

Now that I reread that sentence I see how shallow it is, but I am on vacation and culture and shopping go hand in hand. I bought some tea at Harrods. Some for me and some for others. Dan tortured me and made me go to the Harrods gift shop. It was, well, like someone had puked Harrods all over everything. After Harrods I was hungry (which you know it is best to just give in and feed me) and we went to Pret Manger where I had my favorite sandwich, aged chedder and Branston (which is kind of like a cross between a pickle and chutney).

We then walked over to Westminster Abbey, which I have walked by but never gone in. It was definitely worth the money. This church holds so much history and so many dead bodies. I never realized how many people were buried there. I got to see Queen Elizabeth's grave and Shakespeare's grave. It was almost overwhelming. It is a grand church and at the end they had a small photography exhibit of the royal wedding. Sigh.

We were near St. James Park and I remembered the time before that I had dropped my luggage with CW and wandered through the park to see Buckingham Palace and stumbled across a restaurant in the park called Inn in the Park. My guide book said it was overpriced and not worth it, but I completely disagree. This time unfortunately, we were not able to get a cream tea, but I did get a delicious cup of tea and a perfect English scone. I'll avoid the American vs. English scone rant, but seriously Americans, how can you not get it right.

We took the tube back to our hotel, which I should describe. Keep in mind that we just came from having practically a studio apartment to a London hotel. There are two twin beds, with just enough room in between them for one person to stand up and the bathroom is ridiculously small. At least it is clean and relatively quiet. Finally we got hungry enough to step across the street to the Sussex Inn and have the flakiest fish and chips. Oh, and a beer and maybe a Magners pear cider.

One last thing I should mention-I got quite a bit of sun and now the freckles have popped out on my nose. We went from rain in Denmark to sunny skies in London. Oh the irony.

Trying to recap

I'm happy but tired. Just as any good vacation should make you. Since I've been out doing things I have not managed to post what has been going on so here is my attempt to regale the last couple days.

On Tuesday we got up and bid a sad farewell to our beautiful b and b. The proprietors had left us a lovely spread before they left for their own vacation. We packed up the car and drove an hour and a half to Copenhagen. While there were no ferry's there was a bridge that cost 220 Krone or 40 USD. That was a bit of a shock. It was a grey and rainy day and so it was good that we had no more plans for Denmark. We got to the airport a bit early and did some more shopping. I was seriously tempted by an orange Royal Copenhagen pitcher, but I decided against it. We flew from Copenhagen to London and checked into our hotel that is not far from Kensington Garden. We then were going to walk through the garden but I panicked and thought I had the time wrong to meet Cora and CW for dinner. After much tube riding Dan and I met Cora and CW for dinner (we were late because I had the time wrong). It was so good to see them and I was sorry our visit was so short. I do have to mention that we had Tapas and it had been so long since I had tapas. 

Not everything is about food

This morning I made Dan get up bright and early to go horseback riding. First I have to talk about breakfast and our hosts. I love this place. We have a whole place the size of a studio apartment and our hosts are so ridiculously nice and helpful. I was kind of hoping they would adopt me :) If you are ever in Denmark go to Nabolsa Bed and Breakfast which is located just outside of Nyburg (pronounced New-borg). Our breakfast was fresh, delicious rolls along with amazing marmelade, a grapefruit, brie and grapes, and eggs. I didn't even get to the yogurt or muesli. Plus the coffee was perfect. So, we went to Tyburg, which I can't even find on our map, to go horseback riding. Our guide was actually the owner of the stable and they have 18 horses, most are Arabians. Since I had some experience riding she put me up on an Arabian named King Khan Kit that they call Kit. He was beautiful. He was also really tall and I had a heck of a time getting my leg up and over. I'd have loved to go for a gallop, but it just wasn't in the cards for today. Anyway, we had a quiet amble through the country and it was so nice to be out on a beautiful horse. The stable building was built in the late 1880s and through that you can see a peak at the main house which was fabulous. I decided right then and there that I was moving in. Afterward it was time for a shower and then we tried to go see the Viking ship grave in Ladby, but after getting lost and finally figuring out the correct GPS coordinates we arrived and it was closed. It is not yet tourist season here, so unfortunately many things were closed. I was kind of upset because the gift shop looked really good.

Then we went to Ketemind and stopped at the antique store that we had been eying yesterday. It was a very good find. The owner was really knowledge and nice. I found a beautiful Danico pottery vase from the 20's, in fact I found two and it was very hard to decide which one  to buy. I also got a blue and white Royal Copenhagen creamer that was made in 1926. Then as I was checking out I saw a sweet white with a blue stripe around the top egg holder and I snatched it up. The owner taught us how to determine the age of the Royal Copenhagen and so Dan and I had to go hunting for the older pieces. We then went to the marina restaurant and had some fish and shrimp overlooking the marina. Oh, all those boats.

We drove to Nyburg to go visit a really cool castle, but it was closed. We gave up on Nyburg and headed to Odense. There we found old world charm with new world facilities. Including a bathroom on the street that you can put in 5 Kroners (about 1 USD). So, I put the money in and went into the bathroom and in trying to open it I unlocked the door. I then had to wait for the bathroom to self clean and put in another 5K and try again. Odense is a very charming city and it made for a very good end of the day. That and the beer and smoked salmon. As we were driving home there were sailboats out on the water having a race. It was picture postcard perfect and I wished I was out there with them.

Tomorrow we are bound for London and I will sorely miss the people and this beautiful country.

Get on the ferry

We tried to go visit Mons Klint yesterday late afternoon, but it was raining horribly and they closed at 5. We decided at 4:50PM that it wasn't going to happen. So this morning we got up, had some breakfast overlooking the yellow fields of flowers and backtracked to Mons Klint. I am glad we did because the cliffs are spectacular. There will be pictures later. Then we drove and drove and drove. We drove through about 3 or 4 different islands. As we were leaving one island the GPS showed that we were nearing the point where we would cross. I assumed there would be a bridge and then we pull up to the ferry. At that point the GPS tells us to take the ferry. Holy crap there was a ferry and no bridge. We pull into line to wait for the ferry and the GPS says get on the ferry. It was my first time with a car on a ferry.

After the crossing we headed to a small town Rudkobing on the island of Langland. It was supposed to have some antique stores and we were hungry. Well, let's just say by 3PM on a Sunday the whole town was closed down. Thankfully we found a really good pizzeria. We then crossed over (by bridge) to the island Funen and headed to our B and B which is located in Strandvedt. If you'd like to see pictures click on over to here. As we were heading (I'm having font issues) to the B and B, which is out in the middle of nowhere Dan asked how I found the place. I basically found a B and B that had horses nearby, but they were booked and were kind enough to recommend this place. I am glad that they did. It is a beautiful old thatched house and we are located in the attic dormer of the garage/barn. There is a full living room, dining area and we have a kitchenette and bathroom downstairs. The woman who met us is so nice and there were fresh cut lilac flowers in living room. The garden is huge and beautiful and we are five minutes from the beach. We unpacked the car and headed to the beach for a walk. Keep in mind that was around 7PM. It was still light. In fact it stays light until 10PM. 


After that I was kind of hungry and so we headed into Kerteminde for some dinner. The place we planned on going to was closed and so we wandered past a hotel, but it was too pricey. We ended up at another place and when we walked in we weren't sure (Dan commented later that he thought maybe a senior citizen tour group had stopped there!). We debated over the buffet because I wasn't that hungry, but then we splurged. There was baked fish, smoked fish, crab legs, mussels, prawns, shrimp and tons of other dishes. I ate a ton of fish. It was so good. I'll admit I am a bit too full, but the fresh fish was worth it. We ate overlooking the harbor and the boats. Desert was slightly sweetened strawberries with fresh cream. I forgot the directions back to our hotel, but thankfully we remembered the way.


I have to go to bed and get up early tomorrow morning to go horse back riding. My only complaint is we didn't come to this b and b earlier. It is a little slice of heaven.

Moving to the country...

Today we left Koge and drove about an hour South to the island Mons. The ease of traveling in this country continues to astound and delight me. On  our way we found a shop open that sold ceramics, candles and they had some wooden utensils and dishes. I fell in love with a small square dish and I bought it partly because it was beautiful and also because it smelled like smokey wood. We went to Elmelunde Kirke (Elmelunde Church), which is one of Denmark's oldest stone churches. It dates back to 1080. That reminds me that in 1066 William the Conqueror arrived in England and thus started the English language. That would be one of the only dates I remember. Anyways, the church was bright and white and airy and had amazing frescoes inside. The grounds were very interesting and laid out in a very formal manner. Then we noticed that the small hedges were actually outlining the plots and there were grave stones surrounded by flowers. I'd never seen anything like it before. Next we stopped at Stege Kirke which is famous for its frescoes that are very primitive in style. What was very interesting is that both churches were left unlock for people to wander in. There is definitely an on your honor system here that I also found in the Netherlands. It is rare to have anyone check your ticket for the train and there are tables that are left out overnight that would be gone in a heartbeat in the states.

After visiting churches we headed North on the island to Ulvshale Strand, which is a lovely sweep of beach located on the Baltic Sea. On the way Dan spotted an antique store and we had to stop and check it out. No special finds, but it is always fun to look. It was so nice to walk along the beach, hear the sound of the surf and smell the sea. We then continued to the farthest Northern point of the island (over a bridge) to Nyord. We had lunch at Lollesgard, a little cafe whose address wasn't even found by the GPS. Thankfully there was a sign with the name of the restaurant. We headed down a short country road and parked the car and there nestled in a tiny village was a beautiful white washed cottage with blue trim. We sat in the garden and I had the fish plate for lunch which included fresh mussels, smoked salmon, shrimp and a fish cake. Everything was caught in Nyord and it tasted so incredibly fresh. The sun came out and I was happy.

We headed to Bogo By, a small island West of Mons and checked into our hotel. Unfortunately, it started to rain. We drove East to the far end of Mons to try to go see the cliffs, but it was too wet. Instead we headed to Bryghuset Mon a small cafe that is also a brewery and had a delicious dinner of quiche, salad and home brewed beer. We came back to our bed and breakfast, Stalden, and had desert. Tomorrow we head North to Nyborg. 

Civilization

Oh Denmark. This place is wonderful. It is so pleasant and so easy to get around. Day one and two were spent wandering around Copenhagen. I'm here with Dan and it is wonderful to be traveling with someone. The first day we wandered through a lot of parks, saw art and had lunch at Ida Davidsons. We had traditional smoorebord and my smoked tuna with spinach and a poached egg was melt in your mouth delicious. We took a boat ride on the canals and that was a great way to see the city. We splurged and went to dinner at Famo, which is an amazing Italian place. They even managed to make something vegetarian friendly just for me.

We started the second day with a trip to Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, which is a beautiful mansion built in 1881 and later expanded to house Carlsberg's art collection. Yes, Carlsberg as in the beer. There are some works of art, like Edgar Degas' Dancer, that were unexpected finds.The cafe overlooks the winter garden, which is delightful. I decided that I was just going to move in. We then walked to Christiana, which is a pretty free spirited place. I was hoping to find some handmade goodness, but unfortunately there was none. Before that we stopped at a nearby bakery and I had a delicious smoked salmon sandwich on a fresh wholegrain baguette. We ate picnic style sitting on the canal and watching the guy across the way try to figure out how to raise his sailboat that had sunk.We meandered back to the hotel, walking down the main shopping strip and picking up a couple of presents. That evening we went to the Tivoli which is a very quaint amusement park. We sat on the grass and watched a vaudeville show for awhile. Then Dan tortured me by making me go on some spinny ride that made me want to puke. He then forced me to go on the swings and I spent the whole ride with my eyes closed. I feel like I've developed a fear of heights as I've gotten older. The bumper cars were great fun. We also went on a ride that was like a Hans Christian Anderson version of It's a Small World. The final fun was a roller coaster ride reminiscent of Big Thunder Mountain at Disney. That was my favorite. I had nacho chips and beer for dinner. Mmmmm.

The next day we had a bit of a late start and picked up the rental car and drove to Roskilde. I do have to mention that it took me awhile to put the car in reverse, because in the States the reverse is to the far right and down. Here the reverse is up and to the left right next to first gear. Well, if you do that with out first pushing down on the gear stick you end up in first gear and almost run out of room to figure out where reverse is. I am in love with GPS because it got us to the Viking museum without incident. The museum had 5 ships that had been found in the fjord. Originally they had been scuttled to provide a barrier against attack. Based on the remnants and other research the museum rebuilt one of the war ships and it sailed around to Dublin and then around the UK and back up to Roskilde. It was fascinating. The museum also had a fabulous gift shop. We stopped to eat a really late lunch in Roskilde and I had a salad and the house smoked Salmon. It was not sliced thin, like on a sandwich, but was a delicious chunk of fish. I think it is the best salmon I've had at a restaurant-ever. We then drove half an hour South to a town called Koge. Really, that is all I've got. There is a town called Koge with the largest square in Denmark and the oldest house in Denmark. So, we had some ice cream and then some beer for dinner. Tomorrow morning we plan to get up early and drive a couple of hours South.